Endangered, victim of uncontrolled fishing and pollution in its natural environment, the sturgeon has been a protected species since 1998.
Fishing quotas issued by the CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, or the Washington Convention) have been reduced from year to year. The export of wild caviar was banned in 2008. A radical change then took place: A small revolution in the world of caviar, which had to switch from fishing to farming. In the past, the main source of caviar was fishing for sturgeon in their natural environment, mainly the Caspian Sea, whereas now the main source is farming.
A DRAMATIC DROP
In 1998, wild caviar production was 300 tons, while farmed caviar production was 500 kg. Today, wild caviar production is non-existent, whereas farmed caviar production is around 120/130 tons! Wild caviar, so popular with connoisseurs, has almost disappeared from the planet, eradicated by pollution and overfishing. Over the past 15 years, the situation has completely turned around!
In the 1990s, the Caspian Sea supplied 2,250 tons of caviar a year, 250 of which came from Iran and the rest from the USSR. This production was destined for the domestic market. Of the 2,000 tons of caviar produced in the USSR, only 80 tons was destined for export, the rest for the Russian market. In other words, Russia used to eat a lot of caviar, and still does!
Aquaculture has taken over, and sturgeon farms have sprung up all over the world. These require investment, technical skills and… patience! In fact, it takes 7 to 14 years for a female to reach sexual maturity and bear eggs. And extracting the precious egg pouch (the roe) costs them their lives.
Geography of the farms: Italy, which invested in aquaculture very early on, has risen to 1st place in this activity, followed by France. China is close behind, and is set to overtake the Europeans in growth. From China to Turkey, Uruguay to Bulgaria, Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, Spain, the USA, Israel… Acclimatizable sturgeon species have invaded the freshwater of lakes and ponds, both natural and artificial. Quality is a matter of time and will.
Water purity: This is already an important factor in sturgeon farming. Whether rearing in ponds or lakes, the water generally comes from the nearby mountains. It’s a spring water, free of pesticides, constantly recycled, with a temperature between 15 and 18 degrees. Some breeders prefer indoors ponds, sheltered from the sun, while others use outdoors ponds. We don’t yet have any experience of the effects of sunlight on sturgeon growth, but it seems that sturgeon grow faster in the shade.
Food: This also plays a key role. It is specifically designed for these fish, and constantly monitored: Breeders mainly use approved fishmeal, and some supplement their feed with small fresh frozen fish (sardines, shrimps, etc.). The fish must also be able to move freely. The breeders we work with raise their fish in large spaces (lakes, ponds or basins) so that they can develop in serenity.
In the aquaculture environment, sturgeons spend their first years in large lakes, freshwater lakes, ponds or basins, where they thrive optimally. After 3/4 years, the sex of the sturgeon is identified (ultrasound), and males and females are separated. The former are sold for their meat. The latter will continue to live in ponds. The sturgeon’s maturity cycle is the same as in the wild, and it takes nearly 7 years, depending on the species, for the females to obtain their first eggs! The females with the most beautiful eggs (identified by biopsy) are then selected for caviar production, in ultra-modern laboratories that meet European health standards.
Kaviari anticipated the need to save the species by turning to breeding. Using our know-how in wild caviar, we work hand in hand with breeders to bring our expertise to caviar production. “We never wanted to own the farms, because that’s not our job, but we’re so close to the breeders that we feel at home with them,” says Raphaël Bouchez. Our expertise enables us to refine the caviar ourselves when it arrives in its original tin at our premises. We perfectly master the maturation of caviar, the preparation and control of the cold chain. Crafting this exceptional delicacy requires a long road and unfailing skill. Kaviari is one of these ancestral houses. We’ve been in the same business for over 40 years: Importing caviar, and the best of it!
Today’s consumers understand that caviar remains a luxurious delicacy that justifies its price. And enthusiasts of blond, grey or black caviar will also find that the properties of the new farmed caviars have nothing to envy their precursors. Indeed, the absence of stress, regular feeding in line with the species’ needs, and an intact environment generate optimal conditions for the sturgeon to thrive. Caviars produced in this way grow in quality and develop tasty complexities!
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