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History of sturgeon

Once upon a time

The history of caviar

The history of caviar begins first and foremost with the sturgeon

The sturgeon is a fish from the Asipencer family. One of the world’s oldest fish. Its first records date back to the Eocene period, over 300 million years ago.

Seafaring civilizations such as the Phoenicians and Egyptians were already aware of the advantages and properties of preserving fish in salt and by dehydration. In fact, it was the main staple for sailors on long sea journeys and, since it kept well, formed an important part of their food supplies in the event of war.

Aristotle wrote that, in addition to its delicious flesh, the sturgeon was also known in ancient times for its swim bladder. This was used not only to make an excellent strong glue, but also to clarify wine. Today, this glue is still considered the best for porcelain!

As early as 450 BC, the great Greek historian Herodotus reported the presence of sturgeons in the Dnieper. Records from Athens tell us that sturgeon flesh was a favorite menu for great feasts. Today, the roe of the different species give rise to a variety of caviars, the most famous of which is beluga caviar.

We know from literature that sturgeon was a well-known and appreciated fish in the days of prosperous Rome. The Roman author Pliny relates that ceremonies were held to present “the sturgeon adorned with flowers and wreaths to the sound of music and jubilation”. Back in the day, sturgeon meat was already very expensive, if we are to believe the Roman statesman Cicero, who criticized the outrageous expenses incurred at banquets!

Fishing in the Elbe river. 1870 (Hamburg) - engraving by G. Rau. Source: "Le Caviar" by Horst Gödecken, published by Éditions Jeanne Laffitte.

In the early Middle Ages, sturgeon was considered a “royal fish”, and if caught successfully, was brought to the sovereign’s table. An edict from Edward II of England on sturgeon fishing confirms this tradition.
Long before it was sought after for its roe and gave rise to caviar, the sturgeon was a highly appreciated fish.

Did you know? In China too, sturgeon was highly valued and reserved for the emperor’s table. It was a princely gift for distinguished visitors, and thanks to that, we now have Chinese caviar!

Source: "Le Caviar" by Horst Gödecken, published by Éditions Jeanne Laffitte.
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